2 days in Belfast: History, Pubs, and Grub

When Kristen and I traveled to Ireland for our 1st wedding anniversary in 2016, we did the classic Southern loop — Dublin, Cork, Killarney, Galway. It was an incredible trip, but one place we never made it to was Belfast.

To be honest, the only things I really associated with Belfast were its troubled history of fighting and bombings — and the Cranberries’ song Zombie. So when we scored tickets to see Oasis in Dublin, we knew this was the perfect opportunity to finally head north and see Belfast for ourselves.

What we found was a city that surprised us in every way: a place where history is painted on the walls, where resilience shows in its people, and where you can have one of the best pint of Guinness in Ireland one moment and an inventive cocktail the next.

Here’s how our two days in Belfast unfolded.

Day 1: First Impressions of Belfast

We checked into our Airbnb just south of the city center, a spot that made everything within walking distance. It felt like the right way to see Belfast — close enough to stumble upon new pubs and restaurants, but still tucked away from the busiest streets.

Our first stop was The Jailhouse, a bar tucked into one of the city’s oldest buildings. Its exposed brick, iron fixtures, and narrow staircases hint at its past — this was once a holding place for prisoners centuries ago. Sitting there with a pint in hand, it’s hard not to imagine how many lives had passed through those walls. It was a great first toast to Belfast.

Dinner that night was at Fish City, a local favorite for seafood. The restaurant feels modern and inviting, with friendly staff and a menu that celebrates the sea. The fish was perfectly crisp, the kind that crackles when you bite into it, and paired beautifully with a glass of wine. It set the tone for Belfast dining: hearty, fresh, and unpretentious.

We ended our first evening with a nightcap at The Cloth Ear, a pub attached to The Merchant Hotel. Its mix of vintage décor and lively atmosphere made it the kind of place you could easily lose track of time in. We lingered over a nightcap, already excited for what the next day had in store.

Day 2: History, Titanic, and Belfast Nights Out

The next morning, we woke to blue skies — which was not how you typically picture Ireland. Gray skies would have been more fitting for the history we were about to step into.

We climbed into a black cab and began our Black Cab tour. For an hour and a half, our driver wove stories of Belfast’s troubles and his own involvement as we drove through neighborhoods still divided by walls and painted with murals.

We stopped to see towering paintings of political figures, memorials to lives lost, and the peace walls that still separate Catholic and Protestant communities. The most surreal moment was signing the wall ourselves — adding our names to a canvas already covered with thousands of voices from around the world. It felt humbling, like participating in living history.

From heavy history, we shifted into Belfast’s industrial past in the Titanic Quarter. Before diving into the museum, we stopped at the Titanic Hotel. Inside, maps from the old shipyard were stuff above the central bar. Sipping drinks while looking at those rolled maps you slowly start to realize this is the exact spot where one of the most famous ships in history was born.

Just steps away is the world-renowned Titanic Belfast Museum. The building itself, shaped like a ship’s bow, rises dramatically from the former slipways. Inside, the self-guided tour was more than just history; it was immersive storytelling.

We walked through galleries about Belfast’s shipbuilding past, interactive exhibits on the Titanic’s construction, and stories from passengers and crew. Standing there, you feel both the pride of what was built and the weight of what was lost.

That night we made our way to Coppi, a stylish cicchetti bar that reminded us of Venice. Years ago,while wandering through Venetian canals, we fell in love with the concept of cicchetti — small bites paired with wine, perfect for a quick stop. Ever since, we’ve dreamed about opening a place like that ourselves.

While not as quaint as most cicchetti spots, Coppi captured that magic perfectly. The plates were small but bold in flavor, and sharing them over wine brought us right back to that time in Venice.

After dinner, we headed to the legendary Duke of York. Tucked into a cobbled alleyway strung with colorful lights, the pub was buzzing with life.

Inside, the walls are covered in memorabilia, but outside is where Belfast really shines. People spilled out into the alley, music floated through the air, and glasses clinked as conversations carried into the night. It was here that I had one of the best pint of Guinness in Ireland — smooth, creamy, and poured to perfection.

To cap off the night, we slipped into Margot, a cocktail bar with a completely different vibe from the traditional pubs. Low lighting, sleek design,and inventive cocktails gave it a modern edge — the kind of place you’d expect in New York or London, yet distinctly Belfast in its warmth.

Tips for Spending 2 Days in Belfast

  • Stay central: Our Airbnb just south of the city center made everything walkable.

  • Book ahead: Secure your Black Cab tour and Titanic Belfast tickets in advance.

  • Balance your time: Spend your mornings exploring Belfast’s history, and your evenings enjoying its pubs and restaurants.

  • Soak up the atmosphere: Some of the best moments weren’t in museums or tours, but standing in an alleyway outside a pub with music and laughter echoing around us.

Final Thoughts on Belfast

When we first thought about visiting Belfast, I pictured a city defined only by its past — conflict, bombings, and images from old news clips. But what we found was so much more.

In just two days, we experienced a city that balances its history with creativity, warmth, and an unforgettable nightlife. We walked streets where murals told stories of struggle and peace, sipped drinks in a hotel bar filled with shipyard history, shared cicchetti that transported us back to Venice, and raised pints in pubs alive with music and laughter.

The Oasis concert may have been the reason we returned to Ireland — but Belfast is the reason we’ll come back again.

Matt Rutter

Photographer & Glitch Artist

https://www.matt-rutter.com
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